Guide: Visiting Edinburgh for the first time

Edinburgh is one of my all-time favorite cities that I cannot stop returning to. There are many reasons why I love this historical city including the surreal architecture, kind people, proximity to nature, and heartwarming pubs. I once spent a month here and it still was not enough. Edinburgh captured a piece of my heart and I hope you find that this magical place is somewhere that you can’t get enough of, too.  

I encourage you to spend at least 4 days in Edinburgh, but I know not all schedules allow for that. If it’s your first time, here’s my list of must-see places that are probably in many guidebooks but hopefully this is a bit more narrowed down. 

Make sure to save my Favorite Places in Edinburgh to your Google Map. 

Old Town: The Royal Mile, St. Giles’ Cathedral, Edinburgh Castle

Whether you’re coming from the airport or stepping out of Waverley Station, Old Town should be your first stop. You’ll instantly understand how such a place could have inspired the creator of Harry Potter as you’ll feel like you’re in a make believe world (although tourists will keep you grounded in reality). 

Lined with 16th Century buildings, spend a morning or afternoon making your way up and down what is known as the Royal Mile–named for the streets connecting Holyrood Palace (official residence of the British Monarch in Scotland) on one end and Edinburgh Castle at the other. This will be the busiest area in all of Scotland, but it is worth it. There are many souvenir stores and pubs, but you’ll also find local boutiques and handmade wares sprinkled throughout. 

Some people will love visiting the Palace to get a glimpse at how the monarchy lives, however if that’s not your thing, then skip this. But everyone should make their way up to Edinburgh Castle that dates back to the 11th Century. 

On your way there, pop into St. Giles’ Cathedral to see the inside of one of Edinburgh’s most distinctive landmarks–its crown steeple seen above Old Town is iconic. Then head up the hill to the castle. There will likely be a line to get in, but it usually moves quickly. I recommend getting the audio guide to get the full experience and historical context of what you’re seeing. Don’t be alarmed if you hear cannon fire, it’s probably the One O’Clock Gun being fired precisely at 1pm, every day but Sunday.

Along the Royal Mile, you’ll also spot small entryways to a close, or small alleyway. Be adventurous and take a peek. They can sometimes lead you to surprising discoveries away from the crowds, but are mostly just fun to feel like you found a secret passageway. 

If you leave Old Town on the north side (my recommendation is via Cockburn Street), make sure you stop by the Scott Monument, a striking memorial to writer Sir Walter Scott. From here, make your way west for sweeping views of Old Town and into Princes Street Gardens, a beautifully landscaped garden beneath the shadow of Edinburgh Castle. 

Notable spots in Old Town: 

Shopping: 

• Tron Kirk Market – a welcoming modern market bringing together artists and designers from all over Scotland in an iconic church
• Victoria Street – a photo-worthy street with colorful storefront facades, here you’ll find many small (mostly local) boutiques. My favorite shop is Walker Slater, specializing in high-quality tweed clothing that will convince you tweed is both chic and timeless. There’s both a men’s shop and a women’s shop on this street. 
• Cockburn Street – another street that has unique shops including the charming Eden gift shop

Eating and drinking: 

• The Devil’s Advocate – for a modern dining experience featuring over 300 whiskies, craft cocktails, and a seasonal menu, the Devil’s Advocate does not disappoint. Reservations recommended for dinner. You can also pop in for drinks at the bar and talk with the knowledgeable bartenders to discover your next favorite whisky
• Albanach pub – casual pub for affordable drinks and food in the middle of the Royal Mile at the corner of High Street and Cockburn Street

Calton Hill

You don’t need to climb Arthur’s Seat for the best views of the city. Simply walk up to Calton Hill. Explore the unique monuments that were supposed to represent the “Athens of the North” (the vision was never completed) but more importantly take in the panoramic views of Edinburgh and beyond. If Old Town is the #1 place to visit, this would be my #2. 

After exploring Old Town, it is fun to see it from afar and identify some of the notable buildings in the skyline. You can also see New Town laid out beneath you, the neighborhood of Leith, and the Firth of Forth, an estuary that meets the North Sea. 

Craft Cocktails and Gourmet Dinners in New Town

Technically Calton Hill and Princes Street Gardens are all part of New Town, built in the 18th and 19th Centuries. New Town is a stunning blend of historic and modern, both in its architecture as well as its things to do. For those visiting for the first time, I would recommend staying in New Town for easy access to most sites. 

If museums are on your list, there are plenty in this neighborhood. If you’re into shopping, you can find almost anything you’d want here. And while there are many great restaurants and bars throughout the city, there’s a concentration of unique, modern restaurants and cocktail bars in New Town.

My favorite place is The Bon Vivant where you’ll find a “selection of simple but well executed dishes that focus on flavour and quality produce” in addition to expertly mixed cocktails. I prefer to sit at the small bar to talk with the friendly staff when deciding on what to drink next. 

But I encourage you to explore maps and talk to locals when searching for your next favorite restaurant. I also have several places saved in my Google Map to get you started. 

Dean Village, Water of Leith Walkway, Stockbridge

If you’re into posting on Instagram, Dean Village is a must visit. But even for those not on social media, I would still say Dean Village and the Water of Leith Walkway is a must. The view of Dean Village (viewpoint saved on map) appears to be a movie set as it’s so picturesque. I’d recommend visiting in the morning and then make your way to Stockbridge for lunch.

If you’re approaching Dean Village from New Town, continue on the Water of Leith Walkway heading northeast (to the right) along the river. This is a lush green walk with a few landmarks along the way. Exit at Stockbridge, turn left to cross the bridge and the river, to explore this popular neighborhood that has a charming village feel.  

Stockbridge is peppered with independent boutiques, cozy coffee shops, thrift and vintage stores, and delightful restaurants. And for you Instagrammers, Circus Lane is one of the top places photographed in Edinburgh. 

For the marathoners out there, you can continue on the Water of Leith walkway to make your way to, you guessed it, Leith. This is the neighborhood I typically stay in when visiting. If you’re looking for an up-and-coming neighborhood that is a little bit gritty, a little bit hipster and relatively tourist-free, Leith is your place. Reach out to me if this interests you and we’ll talk more. 

General tips when visiting Edinburgh

• Talk to bartenders – not only for what to drink, but where to go for your next drink or meal. Ask them where they go for a drink. I’ve learned of so many amazing places doing just this. 
• You do not need to rent a car unless you plan on taking your own trips outside of the city 
• Take a bus, use tap to pay – you do not need a separate transit card for the buses, simply use your credit card’s tap to pay option when entering a bus. Also, the double-decker buses make a great, cheap way to tour the city. Go up top and enjoy the views. 
• Transit is also very easy from the airport. You can take a Lothian Airport Bus or an Edinburgh Tram – both run frequently and will be a fraction of the cost of an Uber.
• If you’re near a large grocery store, check out their whisky selection for unbeatable prices and hard to find (in the U.S) whiskies. Grocery stores are also my favorite for local specialities and souvenirs
• Unless you’re there for the Fringe Festival, avoid Edinburgh in August 
• If you’re taking a train from Waverley Station, don’t hesitate to talk to the staff for help. I knew what train I needed to go to St. Andrews, but I wanted to clarify which bus I needed afterward. The staff member not only knew what I needed, but also was able to sell me the proper tickets for both the train and bus. 
• While there are a lot of opportunities to drink whisky, there are no whisky distilleries in Edinburgh. If you’re interested in visiting one, consider taking a day trip. I’ve had good experiences with Rabbies single-day tours as they are small coaches with informative guides. 
• And Scotch Whisky is just known as whisky here. Sláinte! 🙂   

If this is your first trip abroad, make sure to check out my other post for general travel tips.

And if you’re looking for a more personalized guide, please reach out to me! There are many things to do and sites to see that I did not include in this guide to keep it focused on the must-see for most people.